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Single Jersey Fabric (汗布): Buyer Guide to Gauge, GSM, Blends and Shrinkage

Single Jersey Fabric, or 汗布, is a versatile weft knit used extensively for T-shirts. Buyers should specify gauge with yarn details, finished GSM, usable width, fiber blend, laundering-based shrinkage and spirality limits because these variables determine fit, yield, hand and bulk consistency.

汗布Single Jersey FabricKnitted Fabrics

Quick Answer

  • For T-shirts, confirm construction, fiber content, yarn count, machine gauge, finished GSM, usable width, stretch, shrinkage and spirality before approving bulk.
  • Typical single jersey T-shirt weights are supplier-dependent, with lightweight qualities often around 120-160 GSM and medium qualities around 160-220 GSM.
  • Gauge describes needle density on the knitting machine; it does not by itself determine final GSM, handle or garment performance.
  • Set shrinkage tolerances by laundering method and direction, then verify them on finished fabric or garments rather than relying on a supplier's general claim.

What Is Single Jersey Fabric?

Single Jersey Fabric, known in Chinese as 汗布, is a weft-knitted fabric formed on a single-bed circular knitting machine using the basic knit stitch. Its technical face shows a vertical V-shaped appearance, while the reverse shows more horizontal loop crowns. The construction gives good extensibility and a soft hand, but it can curl at cut edges and may show dimensional change or spirality after laundering. Commercial performance depends on fiber content, yarn type, knitting gauge, stitch length, finishing route and compaction.

Common Specifications Buyers Compare

SpecificationCommon OptionsBuyer Note
Fabric presentation and usable widthTubular or open width; supplier-dependent finished widths commonly used for T-shirts.Confirm whether the fabric is tubular or open width and specify the usable width after finishing. This directly affects marker efficiency and garment cost.
Fiber composition100% cotton; cotton-polyester; cotton-modal or cotton-lyocell; cotton with elastane; recycled polyester blends.Request the exact blend and tolerance, plus fiber origin claims if relevant. Fiber content changes dye behavior, hand, shrinkage, pilling and compliance requirements.
Yarn construction and countCombed or carded cotton; ring-spun, compact-spun or open-end yarn; supplier-dependent yarn counts such as 20/1, 24/1, 30/1 or 40/1.Specify yarn type and count because combing, spinning system and linear density influence surface cleanliness, strength, hairiness, cost and pilling.
Knitting gauge and stitch densitySingle-jersey circular knitting gauges are commonly in the mid-gauge range, often about 24-32 gauge, but the available range is supplier-dependent.Ask for machine gauge and, where possible, stitch length or wale/course count. These details improve repeatability when replacing a mill or matching an approved quality.
Finished GSMLightweight T-shirt jersey often around 120-160 GSM; medium T-shirt jersey often around 160-220 GSM; ranges are indicative.Set a finished GSM target and tolerance after the agreed finishing route. GSM affects opacity, drape, consumption, printing behavior and perceived product value.
Dimensional changeLengthwise and widthwise dimensional change reported as percentage after an agreed home-laundering or commercial-laundering procedure.Define the test laundering and drying cycle before approving the tolerance. Shrinkage results are not comparable when wash temperature, agitation or drying differs.
Spirality or skewSupplier- and buyer-dependent tolerance, commonly controlled as a percentage or angular change after laundering.Add a separate spirality or skew limit after laundering. This controls side-seam twisting, which width and length shrinkage figures alone do not show.
Stretch and recoveryCrosswise stretch for standard T-shirts; two-way or four-way stretch for fitted styles; elastane-containing qualities require tighter controls.Specify stretch and recovery direction and test load where fit matters. A fabric can stretch adequately but recover poorly after wear or laundering.

Main Applications

T-shirts and undershirts.Lightweight tops, tank tops and base layers.Children's knitwear and casual apparel.Sleepwear, loungewear and promotional garments.

How Buyers Should Source It

  1. Develop the fabric against the garment, not only a swatch, because neckline construction, seam type and print placement can expose weaknesses that are not visible in loose fabric.
  2. Ask the mill to identify both machine gauge and stitch density; gauge refers to needles per inch, while stitch density describes the finished wale and course count.
  3. Treat higher gauge as a finer machine setting, not an automatic guarantee of lighter GSM, because yarn count, stitch length and finishing also control fabric weight.
  4. Use GSM as a target with a defined tolerance, and compare readings taken after conditioning under the agreed laboratory or mill procedure.
  5. For 100% cotton jersey, require a controlled relaxation and compaction process when low residual shrinkage is needed; untreated cotton knits can contract during laundering.
  6. Separate lengthwise shrinkage, widthwise shrinkage and spirality in the specification because each creates a different garment-fitting or sewing problem.
  7. For polyester or cotton-polyester jersey, evaluate heat exposure and dye route because thermal history can affect width stability, hand and shade consistency.
  8. Use modal, viscose or lyocell blends when a softer drape is required, but verify wet strength, pilling, shrinkage and care performance for the specific blend.
  9. Use elastane only when the product needs recovery or a close fit, and confirm elastane percentage, plating or feeding method, stretch and heat-setting control with the mill.

RFQ Checklist

  • State fiber composition and allowable tolerance, including whether recycled, organic, regenerated or virgin fibers are required.
  • Specify yarn construction and count, such as combed ring-spun cotton 30/1, carded cotton or open-end yarn, because these affect surface, strength, price and pilling.
  • Request machine gauge, stitch length or stitch density, and finished GSM together because gauge alone cannot control the delivered fabric weight.
  • Define finished usable width, tubular or open width presentation, and the measurement basis for width because cutting yield depends on usable fabric rather than nominal width.
  • Set GSM tolerance and ask the mill to report test results by roll or lot because average values can conceal production variation.
  • Specify the finishing route, including dyeing, softener, bio-polish, compacting or heat setting, because finishing changes hand, width, shrinkage and appearance.
  • Set lengthwise and widthwise dimensional-change limits after the intended home-laundering procedure, using fabric or garment testing as appropriate.
  • Request spirality or skew limits after laundering because torque can twist T-shirt side seams even when length and width shrinkage are acceptable.
  • Define stretch and recovery requirements in the relevant direction, especially for neckbands, fitted T-shirts and fabrics containing elastane.
  • Specify pilling, bursting strength, colorfastness and appearance requirements according to the garment's price point, use and care instructions.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Treating gauge as a complete fabric specification without confirming yarn count, stitch length and finished GSM.
  • Approving fabric from a small swatch without checking full-width GSM, usable width and roll-to-roll variation.
  • Specifying shrinkage without defining the wash method, drying method, test condition and measurement direction.
  • Assuming a cotton-rich blend will have the same drape, pilling or recovery as 100% cotton.
  • Using finished garment measurements without allowing for fabric relaxation and tested dimensional change.

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